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Installation: Location, Plumbing & Wiring

The Heat Siphon will perform well in any OUTDOOR location provided three (3) things are present:

1. FRESH OUTDOOR AIR
2. ELECTRICITY - 220 Volt AC
3. POOL FILTRATION PIPING

Heat Siphon may be installed virtually anywhere outdoors.

Unlike a gas heater it has no draft or pilot light problem in a windy area. Direct sunlight is not a concern since Heat Siphon's cabinet is made of a UV stabilized, flame retardant plastic.

DO NOT place Heat Siphon in an enclosed area with a limited air volume OR where Heat Siphon's discharge air will be re-circulated. OR close to shrubs which can block air inlet.

These locations rob the Heat Siphon of a continuous source of fresh air by causing the colder exhaust air to mix with the air entering the evaporator. This recycling of the already cooled exhaust air cools the air down even further which reduces HEAT SIPHON's efficiency and makes the compressor work harder.

Do not locate your Heat Siphon in these places:

How Close Should It Be To Your Pool?

Normally, the pool pump and Heat Siphon are installed close together and within 25 feet of the pool.

The longer the distance from the pool, the more heat loss from the piping. Since most of the time the piping is buried, the heat loss is minimal for runs of up to 50 feet (50 feet to and from the pump = 100 feet total) unless the ground is wet or the water table is high.

A very rough estimate of heat loss per 100 foot is 2500 BTU/hr for every 10° F difference in temperature between the pool water and ground surrounding the pipe, which translates to about 3% to 5% increase in run time.

Where ever you locate your Heat Siphon make sure you allow plenty of space around it not only to prevent the cold exhaust air from re-circulating back into the inlet but also to allow access space should future service be required.

1. Allow 24 to 36 inches of open area all around the Heat Siphon for good air circulation.

2. Allow 36" minimum for service access.

3. Heat Siphon should be level to help drainage of condensation and rainwater. A standard 1/2inch barb fitting is located on the lower right side of the base pan. Standard flexible tubing will slip right over it to direct condensation away.

4. To minimize noise position the flat side of the unit toward sitting area. This side has the lowest noise emissions.

Heat Siphon's exclusive full flow titanium heat exchanger requires no special plumbing arrangements or bypass.The water pressure drop is less than 1 1/2 psi at 80 GPM.

Since there is no residual heat or flame temperatures, Heat Siphon does not need copper heat sink piping. PVC pipe can be run straight into the unit.

Heat Siphon's Heat Exchanger is ALL PVC and allows you to connect to EITHER 1.5 or 2 inch Schedule 40 PVC pipe pool or spa filtration piping.

Both inlet and outlet water connections have a 1.5 inch Inside Diameter for slip (glue) fitting to 1.5 inch pipe and 2 inch male pipe threads on the Outside Diameter to allow connection to 2 inch sch 40 pipe by using a 2" schedule 40 female adapter sleeve or coupler. Both maintain the pipe inside opening all the way into the heat exchanger to eliminate any pressure drop.

Give serious consideration to adding quick coupler fittings at the unit inlet and outlet to allow easy draining of unit for winterizing and to provide easier access should servicing be required.

Heat Siphon Multiple Unit Plumbing

The only thing different about installing ONE Heat Siphon vs. MANY Heat Siphons on ONE POOL is PLUMBING. Each Heat Siphon still requires its own dedicated circuit breaker and all of the rules about location and bonding and wiring one Heat Siphon applies to ALL.

There are just four rules for plumbing multiple Heat Siphons:

1. MAKE SURE EACH HEAT SIPHON GETS at least 30 up to 80 GPM of water flow.
2. PLUMB THEM IN PARALLEL - Don't connect the outlet of any Heat Siphon to the inlet of any Heat Siphon.
3. MAKE EACH CIRCUIT the same length of water travel. This will naturally help balance the flow rate to each unit.
4. Where possible put a set of shutoff valves and a flow meter at each unit to facilitate service without shutting down the system as well as comfirming /balancing the flow rate to each Heat Siphon.

Heat Siphon WIRING

Just install a circuit breaker in your pool equipment panel and run wire. . .

Heat Siphon has a separate molded -in junction box with a standard electrical conduit nipple already in place.

Just remove four screws and the small cover, feed your supply lines in through the conduit nipple and wire-nut the electric supply wires to the three pigtails already in the junction box. (four wires if three phase)

To complete electrical hookup connect Heat Siphon by electrical conduit, UF cable or other suitable means of the proper size wire (as permitted by local electrical codes) to a dedicated AC power supply branch circuit equipped with the proper circuit breaker, disconnect or time delay fuse protection.

Electrical Bonding

Electrical bonding is required to a local earth ground (separate from the power supply grounding) through a solid copper conductor not smaller than #8 size. This bonding wire should also be connected to any other pool or spa system electrical equipment.

Heat Siphon has a standard copper bonding lug located on the right side of the unit facing the front panel.

Disconnect Means Required

For safety reasons, a disconnect means ( fused or un-fused switch or circuit breaker) should be located within sight of and readily accessible from your Heat Siphon. This is common practice on commercial and residential air conditioners and heat pumps. It prevents remotely energizing unattended equipment and permits turning off power at the unit while the unit is being serviced.

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